Minor cases, where there is simply a black spot or a very shallow section of lamina affected, can be dealt with by either trimming the excess sole and wall of the toe from the ground side of the foot until the majority of the seedy toe is gone and then using the hook of the hoof knife to create a small ‘crater’ to further debride the area and leave it so further dirt can’t get packed and continue affecting more lamina.

In moderate cases, it may be necessary to dig out the affected cheesy matter, clean up any affected tissue, boil out with Hydrogen Peroxide, dry, then treat with the strongest Iodine or Iodine derivative product you can find, then pack the area with bits of cotton ball that’s been soaked in the Iodine product.  This treatment works well if the weather or the horse’s environment isn’t continually wet or the horse isn’t frequently standing in muck and mire. If it does have a mucky environment to deal with, I would recommend using a stronger product and I would recommend daily treatment.

Frequency of treating by this method depends on which end of the scale the moderate case is on and how much time you (the owner) are willing to put into the treatment so the recovery can happen more readily.  Obviously, treating on a daily basis is going to take care of the issue quicker than treating once a week, but in less moderate situations and in relatively good environmental conditions, treating once a week may be all that’s required.

More moderately severe cases can be handled by performing a moderate resection of the affected area.  The attached pictures should help you follow the progression of the trimming and resecting process. This method shouldn’t be invasive, shouldn’t draw any blood, shouldn’t cause any discomfort to the horse at all and should give no cause for alarm or fear.

Don’t be alarmed by the use of the word resect in this case.  There are some forms of resection, such as with regard to founder, that are ill-advised or detrimental to the horse’s case, but in the case of a moderately severe seedy toe, it can actually be quite helpful and requires little to no treatment or maintenance between trim cycles.

The reason this is true is because the bacterial concoction that causes the white line to be eaten away is an anaerobic bacteria, meaning it thrives in moist, dark, enclosed areas, such as a manure-packed cavity in the tip of the toe of the wall.  One of the best and most affective treatments for dealing with any anaerobic bacteria is by exposing it to air and sunlight, both are highly affective.  I suppose if you have the use of an ultraviolet light, it’s possible to kill off the bacteria, even if it’s necessary to cover over the resected site, but air and sunlight are cheap and affective.

The toe is really the only place where ‘seedy toe’ takes place, but a similar issue can happen any where around the ground edge of the wall where the integrity of the lamina has been compromised, such as the point where a hairline injury has created a weakened section of hoof wall and that point where it meets the ground and the lamina is not strong enough or viable enough to withstand the punishment of the ground and is not capable of warding off the bacteria or other microbes.

Situations like this are usually easily maintained with no real ill affect through routine debriding and or employing a minor resection, just enough to take the pressure off that section of the wall so it doesn’t continue to pack with dirt, get in under the wall or within the wall and cause further separation.  It’s usually a simple routine issue to deal with, either by you, the horse owner, or by your farrier.

Seedy toe has often been misdiagnosed as white line disease, but don’t be fooled, just because the white line is what’s being affected, this is not white line disease at all, in fact, I personally don’t believe in white line disease at all, I believe what’s known as white line disease is actually a left over condition of some mild founder (or laminitis) cases that was never caught and never treated.  Seedy toe is completely different and is not dependent on or a necessary condition of laminitis.

Seedy toe is almost always associated with imbalanced feet and/or long toes. The added stress of the length of toe, interfering with a smooth break over of the foot, applies excess pressure in the toe region of the foot, thus causing the lamina to be stretched and stressed to the point where it becomes vulnerable to environmental microbes, i.e, the anaerobic bacteria, that gets it’s foot in the door, if you will, then begins to multiply and feed off of the most vulnerable part of the external foot; the lamina.

Seedy toe can so often, as well as many other issues, be kept at bay by simply applying a good, well-balanced trim, which gets the weight of the horse back into the center of the foot, not on the heels and not excessive pressure on the toe due to stabbing, stumbling or break-over pressure. The best medicine, if you will, for the feet is maintaining a good, well-balanced trim; it’s amazing how simple and easy it is to keep feet healthy and strong by maintaining a good proper trim.

Once upon a time, back in my more traditional farrier days, I tended to treat seedy toe in the traditional manner, which was to clean it, debride it, sterilize it and then cover over with some type of epoxy product.  This is done most often when shoes are applied (some would argue if you do a resection like this a shoe is automatically required for hoof stability, which is not true, it’s not needed) and it’s mostly for aesthetics.

In a case where a show horse is involved and the horse is closely judged for any imperfection, it would be necessary to rebuild the resected part of the foot with some epoxy product and likely a shoe would be helpful to keep the epoxy from being pried or broken out, but I would only consider shoes in a case like this only so long as the seedy toe is being addressed and there is need to keep the wall resected.  Otherwise, I wouldn’t shoe or cover the resected area at all.

The affected seedy toe area will in fact dry up and heal up much quicker by leaving the area exposed to air and sunlight than by covering with epoxy, though the area will recover if epoxy is used, but it will take longer and it will be necessary to treat and resect the area a number of times, depending on the environmental conditions, severity of the issue at the start of treatment, how well the area is treated to begin with and how frequent the farrier comes back to re-treat and re-shoe; too many variables to rely on all going right every time.

These days, I tend to address the moderately severe cases in just the way you see in the pictures.  The horse in the pictures was treated only one time in this manner, the condition cleared up and grew out to the point where the next trim only required a cursory clean up of any small area that was left and even it trimmed out once the trimming and dressing of the feet was completed.  I don’t believe in covering the area with anything and I don’t apply shoes for the average, non-show horse; simple resections work almost every time.

There is a situation where even the most diligent horse owner and most skillful farrier can’t clear up some seedy toe cases and in my experience, they tend to be horses that have another underlying issue, that being the an over active case of candida yeast.  Candida yeast is present in most horses, but usually stays buried within the horses system and doesn’t cause any ill affects, pretty much the way EPM is present in the body, but the immune system is able to keep it suppressed. The yeast affects different horses in different ways, one of which is the chronic issue of seedy toe (do a search on candida yeast to learn more about it) and until the yeast issue is resolved, the seedy toe tends to come and go over and over again, though never really going away completely.  If you have already been employing treatment similar to what the pictures show or what I have been describing, please contact me and I’ll get you in touch with people who can help you deal with the yeast problem first and you can then re-address the seedy toe issue.

The more severe cases require being a bit more drastic and diligent with the treatment.  It may well be necessary to remove all the detached wall, even if that requires removing it right up the the point of the hairline and the vast majority of the wall from around the foot, then cleaning, debriding and treating the exposed lamina, allowing it to air dry as best as time and situation allows, then applying a foam rubber pad for comfort, support and stimulation of blood flow and then cast the foot for protection and comfort.  If you suspect you may have a more severe situation such as I’ve described here, please contact me for a more personalized review and treatment plan as each case and situation will be different.

In a situation like this, it will be necessary to clean, treat and cast the foot a number of times; until the new wall has grown in all the way to the ground. Failing to do so can cause the issue to take longer to repair and heal, but it’s usually not the end of the world.  There are various degrees of severity and many environmental issues to take into consideration, but don’t feel there is only one method of treatment and if you don’t treat just this way, your horse won’t recover. It is possible, but you have a much greater chance of clearing it up more quickly if you stay diligent with the treatment.

I hope the information has been helpful and you have a much better idea of what it looks like and how to treat it.  Seedy toe can certainly be a alarming, but it need not be a prolonged problem.  Remember, the best way to keep almost all conditions and ailments in check is through regular sound, balanced trimming.

Please feel free to write or call should you have questions or concerns about your horse; I’ll be happy to do what I can to help.

Founder is reversible!  Founder isn’t a problem with just the feet, there are many issues to consider and contend with surrounding the whole laminitis/founder issue, but founder IS reversible.

How can this be, when we have all been told for decades, if not centuries, that it can’t be fixed, cured or reversed? This is why many vets and farriers first response is to suggest putting the horse down. This is largely because vets and farriers (originally me included) are not taught enough sound pathology or hoof mechanics to understand how to reverse the affects of founder.

I was never satisfied being told ‘you can’t fix founder’. That statement never set well with me, nor did it ever make sense. So I never stopped learning or thinking about the problem and I strived to understand as much as possible so I would have the best chance possible to figure out how to reverse the damaging affects.

Thanks to Tommy Lee Osha and Dr. Robert Bowker, I learned a few additional things that filled in more pieces of the puzzle. Further work with Tommy Lee and Dr. Bowker and further testing on my own in the field helped me to zero in on how to start reversing founder and it’s affects, which helped me to start bringing back many of the affected horses.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s not exactly a walk in the park, there are so many variables to consider, among which are body condition, environment and nutrition, but very many foundered horses are capable of coming back. It has taken years to understand enough to start making a real difference and there is still so much more to learn. But we are making a difference and horses that were supposed to have never made it are out enjoying life that was once thought to have been hopeless.

Is this some kind of guarantee? Unfortunately not; after all, the horse has to have enough drive and desire to get better, among other factors. What can be assured is, as long as everyone does their part of the job to the best of their ability, the feet and the horse can get better.

What is the point to all this? Nothing, if there isn’t anything concrete to validate what we’re talking about. X-rays are not the best, or only, proof, but they are certainly hard to argue. This is one reason why x-rays are vital to work from in founder (or navicular) cases. We use them to determine where and what to trim, but we also use them as a ‘report card’ during the repair process. They tell us just how much more rotation there is to reverse yet.

What we look for is good bone alignment; NOT coffin bone to hoof wall alignment. The hoof wall is not a good structure to gauge against, because the direction and condition of the foot wall is dynamic, meaning the wall can, and does, grow excessively thick under the right (or wrong) conditions. It can grow forward, or it can grow horizontally forward out of the hairline. In short, it is able to grow in many directions over than perfectly ideal. This is why we gauge against an ideal bone alignment of P1, 2 and 3. This method has proven to be much more accurate for me.

It’s not very often I have the chance to work on a case where I have the luxury of seeing before and after x-rays, but when it happens, it’s a rare luxury indeed. So when we do have the chance, we are able to see the positive affects of the trim on the alignment of P3 (primarily) but all three bones as well.

Dr. Perry of the North Shore Equine Clinic on Long Island in New York was gracious enough to allow me to set the horse up so that she was perfectly squared up, standing on two blocks to keep the feet, legs and shoulders in alignment, and was kind enough to provide after x-rays in the exact same location and alignment in order to get these shots. I couldn’t have asked for, or received, better confirmation of the affects of the trim on the feet, bones and legs. This is why it’s vital to lower heels and back up the toes.

In the x-rays that follow, there is no trickery or smoke and mirrors; this is what happens to the bone alignment when the heels are lowered, the toe is “pulled back” and the feet and legs are as balanced as possible for that trim at that point in time.

These two x-rays are great examples of what we like to see. To help further illustrate the point, watch the two x-rays as they are morphed from before trim to after trim. It’s really amazing when you see it this way. Again, there is no trickery, no magic and no smoke and mirrors. It’s just the before and after trim x-rays, which were taken about an hour apart from one another.

I hope the x-rays have been a good visual for you and you get a sense of what the right trim can do for your horse. It can be a tough and daunting challenge, but if all goes well, if we factor in all the variables and if the horse is strong enough and willing, it’s possible to help these foundered horses get better.

I would like to offer my compliments and gratitude to Mrs. Claudia Domb, the owner of the horse in these x-rays, Maggie’s on-site farrier, Matthew Visser, whom has graciously stepped outside his normal comfort zone to try a new approach to founder, and to Dr. Perry for all playing a vital role in the recovery effort for Maggie. Every case and every horse requires that we all play our respective roles, work with one another and become one cohesive team in order to bring these compromised horses back. It’s never any one person who accomplishes success; it’s the entire team. So again, my thanks go out to the whole team who are helping to recover Maggie.

If you have questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me. I would be happy to look over and discuss your case. Please feel free to contact me at 770-312-6909 or through my email at keith@keithseeley.com.

Still Images

Here are Ten Suggestions to use as a quick reference guide to things you can do to make your photographs more effective.

1. Thoroughly wash feet (or at least pick, clean and thoroughly brush feet) so that there is good detail on the photo.
2. Get the Horse to stand as perfectly square as possible when taking photos.
3. Start on the Left Front and Go clock -wise every time. You will then know which foot is which in the photos. (You can also mark or tag each foot if necessary to help identify the feet later. But be consistent each time.
4. Take the same set of shots on each foot i.e. toe view, lateral view, rear view (heel bulbs), sole view and sole plane view.
5. When taking standing shots, get the camera right down on the ground or perhaps one inch above (depends on camera style and size.) . You want ground level shots of hooves but include the pastern. It’s important to be able to compare pastern angle and hoof angle in an normally loaded foot, not one foot forward or off the ground.
6. Knot or hold tail if it is going to interfere in photo.
7. Chose a flat spot of dirt, road or barn aisle, preferable not grass.
8. If you avoid harsh sun, you will also avoid shadows.
9. Try not to use flash if at all possible as it will tend to wash out the subject. Indirect or ambient light is best.
10. Include a full side view, front view, shoulder view and rear view of the horse if possible. These views are valuable for looking the over all balance and symmetry of the horse.

Click here for more information + detailed photos

How to take hoof photos – Click here for detailed instructions

EWWW, what is that smell??? Have you ever asked that question while picking out your horses’ feet? Have you ever noticed a particularly vial, putrid, nasty smell and noticed this particular smell associated with a black, moist, tarry, gunky substance as you clean out the ‘trenches’ on either side of the hoof’s frog? Have you notices that your horse’ frogs look deformed or eaten away with holes, pits or even whole sections of the frog eaten away with this black gunk in it? That physical appearance, along with this particularly vial smell, tells you that your horse has thrush. ‘OH NO!, My horse has THRUSH??’ If you smell something like I’ve just described, chances are Old Thunder has thrush. Is it contagious? Will my other horses get it? And will it hurt my horse? If you’re a true horse owner, been around horses for a long time and have cleaned your horses feet out on a regular basis, chances are you know what thrush is and you likely know the answers to these questions. If not, keep reading. I’ll try to answer your questions and hopefully arm you with enough information to address this problem.

Thrush typically affects the frog the most. It is possible to get thrush in underlying areas of the sole and in the white line region of the ground surface of the foot. Thrush typically affects horses with feet that are not perfectly healthy, or horses that have to stand in mucky, bacteria-laden areas, such as around stagnant water holes that have a lot of manure and urine in it. It is also very prevalent in dark, dank, nasty stalls. These are just a couple of the more common situations that make it easier for your horse to get thrush.

Thrush is pretty much nothing more than a maintenance issue, brought on by poor environmental conditions, but can be affected due to conformation problems as well. What this means is, your horse is a lot less likely to get thrush if you keep you horses’ feet properly trimmed or shod, keep him nutritionally healthy and kept his feet reasonably dry and debris free, all the while, having his feet regularly tended to by a certified farrier. This is no guarantee that your horse won’t get thrush, but it sure greatly reduces the chances. The bottom line is, if your horse has a sound, healthy foot inside AND out, if he is able to move around in good pasture or paddocks, he is able to keep sound, healthy tissue growing in his feet, his body is healthy and well balanced, then thrush should not be a problem. Sound healthy horses have been noted to stand in some pretty nasty stalls and not get thrush. Conversely, horses in poor hoof or body health have been noted in wide-open areas and have advances cases of thrush. Another thing to remember is, horses who are shod year in and year out tend to be more susceptible to thrush than barefooted horses that perhaps aren’t on the best of pastures or on the best trim regiment. The difference? Well, it’s the internal health of the hoof. It’s the lack of blood flow through the hoof, resulting in less healthy tissue. Therefore, bacteria and fungus are more able to take hold. So we go back to the beginning, thrush is a maintenance issue. Maintain a sound healthy hoof and body, and the thrush will be less of a problem.

Thrush is not contagious, air or insects do not transmit it and horses can’t pass it on to another horse by eating after them or coming in contact with them. However, more than one horse in the same barn, corral or pasture can have it. It is interesting to note that even though multiple horses have the condition, not all of them have it the same way, nor will they all have it to the same degree. Each horses’ individual health and immune system, and even their conformation, will affect how much they are affected, as well as, how easy it is to get rid of. Depending on how often your horses’ feet are picked and cleaned and repacked with clean mud, how diligent you are about treating the feet and how long you allow your horse to live in the conditions that breed this bacteria in the first place, will depend on how much he gets and how fast it’s gotten rid of.

Thrush is not life threatening, but certainly can be detrimental to your horses’ health. It can completely eat away the entire frog, to the point that there is virtually no protection for the coffin bone. There may be no frog touching the ground to provide traction or to help push fluid throughout the foot. The horses’ frog area can begin bleeding from the slightest touch of the hoof pick, rock or stump of grass. The affects of thrush can be quite painful for your horses in more sever cases. But as long as it’s tended to regularly and diligently, the condition can be eliminated.

So what can you do to help treat thrush? First of all, one of the old tried and true methods of keeping down any bacteria and fungus in the stall, barn or pasture is to spread lime. It’s cheap and affective. As far as treating your horses’ feet once he has the condition, there are several methods. Iodine, betadine or soaking the feet in an Epsom salt bath has always been affective methods of treatment. A mild bleach solution works, too, that would be either a 10 to 1 or 10 to 2 solution. 10 parts water and 1 or 2 parts bleach. No more! You can also opt to use something like Listerine and scrub with a new stiff toothbrush, a vegetable brush or any other medium stiff bristled brush like that. There are a number of thrush treatment products on the market as well. But be careful when using any of these chemicals. Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. If you like the natural approach to curing problems, there are a number of holistic products on the market. Even Apple Cider Vinegar is natural and is a natural anti-biotic substance. Check out the Internet for what might be available. I have some personal preferences, but I’m not pushing products here. Whenever in doubt, please seek the advice and guidance of a certified farrier. They can advise you as to which product(s) to use, what the frequency of treatment should be, and how long to continue the treatment. Just like the warnings you hear on TV concerning any medicine, please consult your doctor before using what ever that product is. Well, in this case, your farrier IS your doctor. They will be happy to assist you.

Should you have any problems or questions, please contact me. I’ll be happy to assist you.

I hope this article has been helpful to you. Please be kind to your horse and Happy Trails..

Keith

“Hello? Yes, Ma’am? Who did you say referred you? Oh, great. Thanks for calling. What can I do for you? Your horse’s feet are cracking. When was the last time you had him worked on? That long ago?? And your horse’s feet are cracking. Well, are they breaking off at the bottom or are they cracking or splitting up the hoof wall? Up the hoof wall, eh? Ok, so are the cracks on the sides of the foot or at the toe? At the toe, ok. How far up do the cracks go? One is just a little ways, like an inch or less? Yes, ok. And the others? A bit farther. And the right front goes almost half way up the wall. And what do the cracks look like from the ground-side of the foot? I see. Well, without that information and without seeing the horse, I can’t give an accurate diagnosis, but it sounds like your horse may have a problem commonly called ‘seedy toe’. No, it’s not fatal. It’s primarily a maintenance problem, meaning you and your farrier have to work together to treat and / or prevent this problem. Yes Ma’am, it is treatable and yes we can get rid of it, but it will require you to follow some instructions in between your farriers’ appointments. When can I be there? Hold on, let me get my calendar.”

To us farriers, this is a fairly typical scenario. The responses and the methods of treating this condition vary greatly. To me, this is one of those situations that are not at all unlike doctors treating you for a cold or flu. Each one has their own ideas of how to treat and / or prevent problems, but this in itself is a topic for another day.

Most of the time, this cracking at the toe is a telltale sign of seedy toe. Not always. I have been fooled on occasion, but usually. It’s basically a maintenance issue associated with horses whose feet aren’t tended to regularly. Supporting factors to this could be because the terrain isn’t hard enough or abrasive enough to keep the horses feet worn short, because the toes are allowed to grow too long without regular trimming or shoeing, or because the horseshoer doesn’t fully understand the dynamics of the hoof. Long toe/low heel is a typical hoof condition I tend to see associated with seedy toe. As a general rule, it affects the front feet more frequently, mostly due to the growth pattern of the feet and the fact that horses carry about 70% of their weight on the front end.

Here’s what’s happening. As the horse grows out of balance, i.e., toes get long, conformational problems go unchecked, etc., and the anaerobic bacteria and fungus are allowed to gain a foothold on the weakest part of the foot. In this case, that would be the toe area. Think about it. Put your fingertips together as though you were placing your hands around the hoof wall with your fingers at the front of the foot. Pretend the heels of your hands are the heels of the horse’s feet. Now then, keeping your fingertips touching, move the heels of your hands in and out, simulating the loading and unloading of the horse’s foot. Notice how the point of the foot that moves the most is right at the toe. From the standpoint of the motion of the foot, that is the weakest point. The laminae are really stressed. When you add long toes, poor environmental conditions and/or balance/conformational issues, you get to a point where the anaerobic bacteria and fungus can take hold. The white line begins to be eaten away. The horse, just from walking, begins to pack dirt and muck into that spot, and the situation begins to compound. The more crap that gets packed in, the better the environment for the bacteria and fungus and the more they are able to eat away at the white line. (The crack itself is due to the stresses on the hoof wall, both laterally and longitudinally, and the packing of more and more debris in a confined space.) It all becomes a vicious cycle. It is entirely possible for the white line to be completely eaten way, to the point that the hoof wall is only being held in place by the hairline and not much else. I know, I’ve seen this happen. However, this is usually the exception, not the rule. But, it is possible. Why is this able to happen? Because neither the horse owner nor the shoer properly maintained the feet to prevent and / or treat the problem. In some cases, the shoer never tells the owner about this problem, nor do they themselves do anything to treat or prevent the problem. This is another reason why you should be using a certified professional farrier.

Ok, so now that I’ve gotten you all worked up to the point that you think every crack at your horse’s toe is seedy toe and that your horse’s foot is going to fall off, you’re wondering what you can do about it. Well, again, not every crack at the toe is seedy toe and not every case will be severe. But every case of seedy toe should be dealt with as though it were going to become severe. So what do you do now? Well, first off, you will want to use your phone to talk to a farrier. Next, you’ll want to use your hoof pick and try to dig out all the black gunk in the hole that’s been formed in the ground side of the hoof at the toe. Yes, this means you’ll have to pick the horse’s foot up to see the hole and clean out the mess. Don’t be afraid to get in there and dig. You’ll pull out some dirt, manure and other such gunk. You’ll then start pulling out something that looks like old moldy cheese. That’s where the bacteria and fungus had been working on the lamina. You’ve got to clean all that mess out. Now then, you can use a number of chemicals to help kill this stuff, but it needs to be used on a regular basis in order to begin to clear it up. Ten percent (10%) Iodine solution is just barely strong enough to affect it. But if used regularly, the hole, packed with saturated gauze or sponge and some form of shoe or boot placed on the horse’s foot, will usually clear up. The length of time required to clear it up will depend on the severity and depth of the hole and the length of time it takes the horse to grow out new hoof wall. Personally, I use a mixture of 10% Iodine, DMSO and Epsom salt crystals. This by itself isn’t strong enough to immediately kill off the bacteria and fungus. But if used on a very regular basis, it will weaken it enough so that it doesn’t continue getting worse. The horse’s hoof can then grow out the affected area, eventually putting sound hoof back on the ground. Other readily available chemicals and solutions that can be used are: 10 to 2 Clorox solution, Betadine solutions, Methiolate or Iodine crystals. All of these are reasonably effective against seedy toe. Again, the frequency of their use is the trick. In some cases, the best way to deal with the problem is to fully cut out the affected area. That’s known as performing a resection. The hoof wall is completely removed, along with all of the black lines and patches, thoroughly disinfected the area, and the hoof wall rebuilt with one of the many hoof-building products on the market. Think of it like a doctor cutting out cancer in the body. They remove the affected area, take out a little bit extra to be sure, then close it up and provide a series of treatments to prevent it from coming back. But remember, this should only be considered in sever cases.

So how do you know which is the best method and best treatment for your horse? Good question. I can’t answer that in this article. Your farrier will have to look at the situation, determine the severity, weigh the options, and determine a course of action. He, or she, may decide that a simple daily treatment of Iodine and gauze packing will do the trick or that a resection is needed. Only your farrier will know for sure. Once a course and direction are determined, you will be expected to follow the instructions given to you by your farrier. If you don’t follow them, don’t expect the problem to go away. Your farrier is not a miracle worker. He, or she, can only do just so much during each visit. The rest is up to you! The part of the treatment that IS your farriers responsibility is making sure the feet are trimmed properly, the pastern angle is properly maintained, the balance of the horse is properly maintained and the low heel / long toe issue is addressed. More hoof problems tend to grow out and disappear when the feet are keep properly balanced and properly trimmed.

You may wonder if this is something that’s painful for you horse. The answer depends on your individual horses’ hoof condition and the severity of the situation. At first, your horse will not feel anything. Image you have a split or break in the exterior part of your fingernail. As that split makes it’s way to the quick of your finger, it then becomes painful to you. Same thing with your horse, as the split gets bigger, more gunk gets packed in his toe and the more laminae that’s eaten away, the more he’s going to feel the affect in his foot. Plain and simple, it’s cause and affect. The more you have your horse’s feet tended to by a qualified, certified farrier, the less likely your horse is to developing this condition. Is this an assured guarantee? No. I wish I could say yes, but I can’t. Even the best of us can’t control your horse’s conformation, environmental conditions, nutritional health and genetics. But what we can do is keep your horse balanced so that the stress and load on your horse’s feet are kept within proper limits. We can provide you with the knowledge and guidance to keep your horse’s feet as healthy as possible. And we can employ any number of ways to treat this, and other, hoof conditions or ailments.

I hope this article has helped you see that the key to a sound and healthy horse is to keep him properly trimmed and balanced. This is the key to addressing so many hoof ailments, even better than having a complete chemistry lab at your fingertips. Proper trimming is the fundamental key to a sound healthy horse!

Please contact me if you have any problems or questions. I’ll be happy to help.

Please be kind to your horse and Happy Trails. And remember, Horses are People Too….

Keith

Picture if you will, you are a relatively new horse owner. You’ve just acquired a new horse and you don’t know all that much about him. He’s got a little age on him, he seems gentle enough, even after you’ve gotten him home. The previous owners said he was an easy keeper. They hardly ever had to feed him much and they never had to worry about his feet. Sounded too good to be true, right? Well, all too often, new horse owners wind up purchasing some of their first horses this way. Some get lucky and really ‘get what they paid for’; meaning they got a good horse at a low cost. Unfortunately, most do not. Often times there are hidden problems with the horse. Perhaps the previous owners knew about them ‘failed to mention them’ and perhaps they didn’t. I’ll not debate that thought here.

So now you have Rusty home. His settled into his new surroundings, now what? You bought Rusty for your kids to ride. You got a second hand saddle and bridle with the horse, so you’re set there. You’ve gone to the local feed store and picked up feed, buckets, brushes and all the other nice stuff that us horse owners just can’t resist buying, even if we already have tons of them back at the barn. You figure you’re all set and ready to ride. So the big weekend comes. The weather is great, you’ve got time to devote to your kids and the new horse. But something doesn’t seem right with him. Rusty seems a bit ‘off’. Not what you have experienced as his usual self. He seems to move around a bit slower, if in fact he does move around much at all. You try to call a couple of your friends who have horses to see if they can help you determine if there is a problem and if you need to call some one. So now what do you do? You feel you need to call a professional to help you determine if, in fact, anything is wrong with Rusty. Who ya gonna call??

You basically have two choices. You can call a veterinarian or you can call a farrier. Most people think to call a vet first. In some cases, that’s the right choice. Sometimes, the horse’s problem is internal, such as if the horse colic’s or has some kind of open wound. The vet would therefore be the right choice to call first. But there are times, as with our case with Rusty, where you can’t tell what the problem is? Is it medically related, or is it farrier related? It would be great if they could talk and tell us where it hurts, but they can’t, not really. The expression on their faces will tell an experienced horse person that they aren’t feeling good, their movement will tell that person that the horse is off, but it might take the trained eye of a professional to really pinpoint the problem. So again, who are you going to call? Hard to tell, isn’t it?

Well, let’s look at the horse as though he were a building and start from the ground and work our way up. The foundation of the horse is his feet. If his feet aren’t in good shape, then the horse has a poor foundation and none of the rest of the horse is going to feel well. Think of yourself when you are wearing the wrong shoes for the wrong activity and you can’t get off of your feet for quite a while. Think about how much worse you feel as time goes on and you are forced to move around at a normal pace. It gets harder and harder for you to feel comfortable and not limp around. After a while, your whole body begins to feel the discomfort, doesn’t it? Now relate that same thought to your horse. He’s not moving around much and he’s reluctant to walk more than a little bit. You notice that his feet aren’t in the nice pretty shape as the horses you’ve seen on TV, nor are they in the same shape as some of your better horse friend’s horses. Could this be the problem? Perhaps. I think by now you get the idea of where I’m going with this scenario. If in doubt as to what the problem is and there are no physical signs of a medical problem, the person to call first is a farrier. Most qualified farriers can reasonably well discuss your situation over the phone and help you determine if you have a problem in the foot and lower leg (the farrier’s area of expertise) or if you have a possible medical problem elsewhere in the body (the vet’s area of expertise.)

A good rule of thumb to remember about horse lameness is the fact that the vast majority of all horse problems occur in the foot and lower limb. That means that a certified farrier can address the majority of all horse problems. Since farriers see more horses and more horse problems / conditions than any other equine professional, farriers have gained a vast amount of knowledge about the complete and total horse. This doesn’t mean they will attempt to address a medical problem, a dental problem, a nutritional problem or even a chiropractic problem. But they should have enough knowledge to help you know ‘who’ the next best professional is to call.

Let’s get back to our scenario. Again, the first professional most people think to call is the vet. You contact one and they make an appointment to come out. They perform an evaluation and determine that there appears to be something wrong with your horse, but can’t pinpoint anything specific. They perhaps write you a prescription for a drug or two, perhaps run some blood tests, etc. Their tests all come up negative. There appears to be nothing wrong with your horse. Now what? Some vets are reasonably knowledgeable about foot problems and know that you need to contact a farrier. Others are not.

So what’s the moral of the story? There are actually several aspects to the moral. First, recognize the need to learn as much about your horse as possible. This, I’m afraid, will be a life-long learning process. Second, learn to know who to call for what type of problem. This too will take a long time to learn well. Third, understand that even though the farrier is by far the all around most knowledgeable about the horse than any other equine professional, his area of responsibility is that of the feet and lower limb. Should your horse’s feet require medical attention beyond his ability, your farrier will advise you to contact a vet. Fourth, understand that ‘most’ vets have very little training in the foot and lower leg and should not be expected to advise or prescribe any type of shoeing, trimming or treatment for your horse’s feet without first consulting your farrier. Ladies and gentlemen, please remember this, you don’t go to an internist if you have problems with you feet. You don’t go to the dentist if you have a stomach problem. You don’t take your car to a body shop if you have mechanical problems. Then please don’t take your horse to a vet for feet problems. Each profession has its purpose. Employ only qualified, certified professionals. Now do you have a better idea of ‘who ya gonna call?? I hope so.

Please contact me if you have questions or problems. I’m here to help.

Keith

Our horse has had antibiotics and steroids for years, due to a swollen sheath. We started Bug Check for flies; the sheath problem went away. The problem came back when we stopped Bug Check. Needless to say, we started back on Bug Check. Our vet was amazed; he started referring people, too. O. Odel

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I was boarding a friend’s horse last year. She was not convinced of Bug Check’s value. She changed her mind when she saw her horse covered with flies, standing next to my horse ( it was on Bug Check) that did not have a fly on it. Bug Check is great!L. Sinclaire

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Thanks to Worm-Check, I have not de-wormed my horses since March; they never have worms. I use Bug Check year-round, so I never have to use fly masks. I am your biggest fan! S. Adams

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Dr. Dan, he’s our man. His Bug Check is killing flies like nothing can! S. Golus

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Bug Check worked VERY well during a summer of SEVERE fly infestation. My horse really appreciated it! M. Lord

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My horse had Hematoma surgery, allergies, and mucous problems. He was on Tri Hist. At your suggestion, we tried Vim and Vigor Plus Joint. He is now better. M. Nathaniel

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I have been using Grape Balm Hoof Healer on a Thoroughbred that had a very poor, very dry hoof. It was always cracked. Until then, the owner was ready to give up. She is now the perfect horse when it comes to her hoof wall and sole. Thanks Grape Balm! B. Taylor

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I have been using Bug Check for two years and will continue to use it in the future.
It has kept the fly population down around the barn; flies do not reproduce in the manure. Also, when I trail ride my horse occasionally gets a few ticks. Even if I miss removing one, it will be dead when I find it. B. Ramkin

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Get past Grape Balm’s smell!! It is worth its weight in gold! I have two injury-prone horses that always have scrapes and cuts. Grape Balm handles them all. It heals wonderfully, whilst it repels flies and gnats. I even use it on myself with great results. I highly recommend Grape Balm for every horse owner. It handles all of my wound care.
J. Palmer

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My horses are Feid care, which means lots of biting. I always use Marigold Pocket healer on them. Within two to three days they usually have a good bit of hair starting to return. Also, it’s a great product for my dry lips; don’t tell my horses! J. Smith

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My horse is twenty-two year old COPD case. The vet said he had only four more months to live. He has been around for two more years, even with a high pollen count! Thank you! T. Niston

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We have five horses. We love Bug Check for insect control and as a beneficial food additive. M. Hedges

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I always feed my older gelding Vim and Vigor Plus Joint. He’s dropped weight on-and-off for years; we could never keep him at a healthy, consistent weight. Then we started him on this product. He has maintained a healthy weight for three months now. Also, his joints would crack when I picked up his feet. What’s more, he’d shift his weight from leg to leg in the pasture; he doesn’t do that anymore. My gelding doesn’t cough and heave from his hay anymore. Once we would soak it; now we throw it into his stall as-is. We’ll never go without this product again!!! J. and “Gideon” Walker

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My father’s dog was itching and losing her hair. I used Grape Wound Healer for three days; her hair was growing back and the itching stopped. M. Ikermean

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I had my horse on Red Cal with Bug Check; for the first time in his life he had no rain-rot. I sent him to another farm, and they stopped giving him the Red Cal. The rain-rot was back within the first month! K. Davidson

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I eat all organic foods and use all-natural products. You helped me realize I was exposing my horse to many chemicals that could be compromising to his health. Thanks for educating horse owners that there is a better way! E. Marks

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I purchased Critical Care Overweight for my nine year-old Morgan horse that had just foundered. At that time he weighed 1,250 pounds. Now she weighs about 1,100 pounds and looks great! He gallops for miles and really enjoys himself. Thanks for giving me back my horse! G. Varnedoe

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I started on Bug Check last year. I have since converted three other owners. My horses have had very few fly problems, have better coats, and a greater hair shine. Thanks for this product! C. Stuther

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It is not 100%, but you will love the difference! D. Amonite

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We have been giving my twelve year-old Appaloosa gelding Bug Check for about a year. Not only is he healthier, but the bugs stay away like never before! I feel great knowing I’m giving my horse what is best for him. Thank you for your wonderful products.
W. Hodge

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I met you a year ago at the Novi Expo and spoke to you about my mare Jazz who has always had extreme skin allergies in the summer months. You suggested I put her on a month’s worth of Critical Care and then maintenance of Vim and Vigor. I did so (I actually use the Vim & Vigor +Joint) and she will always be on this product! This was the best summer ever for her skin. She still had some itchiness, but her mane is intact and she never tore open her face as she did in the past from her incessant scratching on anything and everything she could find. Thank you so much! By the way, I also put my other two horses on the Vim & Vigor and I realized the other day that my other mare no longer has a dry cough, not even occasionally. Again, my horses will always be on Vim & Vigor. Ellen Butler

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I am from Eastern Canada where the bugs take over the trails in mid-May. My Thoroughbred is usually unable to be ridden in the woods during most of the summer. However, this year we started using your Bug Check, and WOW! The bugs would light for a moment and then take off! This is a great product. Thank you for making riding a lot less “buggy” and a lot more enjoyable! D. Shorten

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My horse got a really big, nasty wound-it was the size of my fist. The Grape Balm really helped. It’s great! K. Schwann

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My two year old cut her knee open very bad. The Grape Balm handled it. She didn’t have any scars or proud flesh. L Harris

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Bug Check is great. Usually we have had no problems with flies or ticks. In the past we have always had to use sprays; but not this year! We were skeptical, but not now!
T. Santori

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I use Bug Check on my horse Shyann, and I have to say it works great. She eats it all up. It keeps all the bugs away. Bug Check is a great product! N. Cjelski

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My horse cut her leg. It was a huge open wound. I used only Grape Balm on the open wound. It healed perfectly. She had no scar. N. Echer

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I have used Red Cal on my foundered mare for one year. I have had fantastic results.
T. Chrymsemy

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Dr. Dan’s stuff is the best stuff in the world!
L. Beckner-International Side Saddle Organization, 2003 High Point Junior Rider

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I’ve had an Arabian in northern New Jersey. He’s had a real problem with ticks. We were using garlic. Bug Check works much better!! It’s not as stinky or sticky. We’ve used Bug Check all season; we haven’t found a tick on him since! K. Lawley

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I have a Tennessee Walker named Choice. I have had him on Vim and Vigor, Just Add Oats, and H2Oil. I’ll keep him on these for life! These products are wonderful. His hoofs have never been better. I highly recommend these products! E. Lichtenwalver

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Subject: Bug Check Message: I had run out of Bug Check for a week and received it last Friday. In 4 days, I noticed their coats were lustrous and darker. My TWH had turned yellow and now he is black. I have been using this product for 4 years and I would only hope every horse owner would purchase it. It is GREAT! N. Silvers

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Each winter at the horse festival, I tell you how happy I am with this product, but I had to give a testimony. Bug Check is a superlative product to ride flies, mosquitoes and even Harnett County, North Carolina gnats.
Thank you so much M. Rose

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Okay, Dr. Dan, I’m sold. Here’s why. My eight horses have continued to be bugged by house/deer/horse flies in what has to be the worst season I’ve yet seen here in Mississippi. We use a natural fly spray called Flicks, and that keeps them fly-free for a time, but nothing lasts forever. I kept seeing blood streaks on their legs, and having to fend off flies in the barn. Thought your Bug Check wasn’t working. BUT. We have a temporary border, a little pony named Maggie who is not getting Bug Check. And though she is hosed down and fly-sprayed as often as the others, she is a walking blood-streak billboard! So although the Bug Check may not be perfect, it does seem to be keeping my eight more comfortable than is poor little Maggie. Looking forward to hearing from you ASAP, because I need to reorder soon in order not to run out. With best regards and thanks. Dale

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Subject: Bug Check
Message: To whom it may concern, I am employed by an Equine Veterinary Clinic and would be very interested in marketing Bug Check not only to my employer and his clients but also to other horse people I have met through my daughter’s Pony Club and riding lessons. I have been using Bug Check on my horses for the last 3 weeks and have been amazed. My one horse Cody is miserable when pursued by nats and flies, especially in the head area. After only 3 days I noticed a difference. Our clinic is always interested in homeopathic and other alternative medicines. Please let me know if this is something you would be interested in. Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.
Sincerely, Paula

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Subject: Bug Check
Message: Just wanted to tell you I am fast becoming a true believer in Bug Check. Last year, in Florida’s heat and humidity, my 20-year-old QH gelding had a miserable summer with sores resulting from insect bites. They just wouldn’t heal, and he would constantly rub them. In March of this year, I was already starting to see the sores again, even though it wasn’t even peak season for bugs. So I started him on Bug Check. Now, a month later, NO SORES!!! We still haven’t reached the peak insect season, but if I continue to get these results all summer, I’ll be a Bug Check believer for life. My horse looks fantastic and seems to feel great, too. And I know I’m saving both money and time by minimizing the use of external fly repellent products. Color me a VERY satisfied customer! E. Houtz

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Hi, Need a large container of hoof and oil (h2OIL)and 1 worm check please. Remember to take off shipping. Thanks, Horses are doing wonderful on your products. Everyone is noticing. Elyse Henault

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Subject: Red Cal
Message: Dr. Moore, are there any current or upcoming special offers on Red Cal? I bought a couple bags at the PA Horse Expo and I’m running out. By the way, I’m the one who emailed that my horses wouldn’t eat it and you instructed me to get rid of all other sources of salt. I did and they dug right into it after that. Thanks, Cyd

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Thank you! I tried to submit a comment about this product but my system $^*($^ out and I lost the link. Please let the doctor and everyone there know that we first purchased this at the Equine Affaire in Springfield, MA last fall, and agree that it is the very BEST supplement we have ever found. The difference it has made in our horses is phenomenal, but the most dramatic change was in our goats. They had had very dry flaky skin, but now, after feeding them the oil twice a day since November, their coats are glossy and nearly flake free! I would like to know if this is safe to feed to dogs and cats. If so, what is the recommended dose? Thanks again. We’ll be ordering more products. (We also have your Red-Cal which we will begin feeding shortly…can’t wait to see the results). Lona J. Bishop Rock Maple Stable

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Message: Hi Dr. Dan,
I am a chiropractor working on people and animals. I went through the AVCA. Many people in our area are listening to your tape and using your products. I just wanted to thank you for “fighting the good fight.” My wife and I have a horse farm (www.engelwood.com). If you are ever in Northeast PA, drop me a line and stop in.
It is encouraging to know you are providing the truth to the public. How can I get more of your tapes to hand out to people? Thanks, Neil Engelman, DC

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Dr Dan Thanks.
I really like the Bug check and H2Oil, my horses look GREAT – better than when they were on Triple Crowns Rice bran oil mix. Calmer too. Bugs are less than with the Equitrol we used last year and I’m happy I’m not feeding poison to them. Does Bug check also help with worms? or should I use worm check also? They were on daily wormer until end of May. Nancy M.

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Subject: Red Cal
Message: Hi Dan, Keith and I love the Red Cal, actually the horses do!! We have bought two bags since Equine Affair and it is time to order more. We would like to order in bulk but don’t want an order as large as the 10 bag. Could you give us a discount if we ordered 5 bags? That would have us set for several months. Thanks a bunch, Andrea

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Just to update you, it seems that in our area of Fl., there was an epidemic of orangeish horses. The only thing that the vets could come up with was that we had had three to four years of drought and this year we have had an abundance of rain. The pastures were “toxic”? Anyway, even though all of my horses were affected to some degree, my youngest was the worst even with developing sores, scabbing, and all 4 feet contracted dew poisoning. I was treating him with ointments and he was healing very slowly. Started him on your Bug Check and his scabs started going away quickly; no more ointments. Now, it could be that this was to happen anyway, but I believe that some of the ingredients in your product help boost his immune system. ?????? I would like to put him on your Vim and Vigor, Thanks for your previous response. Arlene

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Well, glad you checked in… THE BUG CHECK IS WORKING!! We have 4 horses on it, and we are seeing results. I think that I may have started the Bug Check a little late, and perhaps it hadn’t built up enough in his system, but I will tell you, he looks better this year than he has in the past couple of years! I will start earlier next season for sure. (unless, of course, I just leave him on the supplement year round, which I am considering.) In the meantime, I wanted to let you know that I am working towards my certification as a CEP (Certified Equine Podiatrist) with KC LaPierre, and his HPT (High Performance Trim) Method. I have been promoting a more natural way of horse care, and being “shoeless, not clueless,” and feeding Bug Check is helping me on my way. Thanks Dr. Dan! Sincerely, Melissa Lenter

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Hello Dr.Moore,
I wanted to send you an email to thank you for the product you sold us. Thanks for the time you spent with Tiffany and myself. I appreciate what you are doing for horses and their owners. I am very happy with how the horses have responded to the Red Cal as well as the other products.
Thanks for everything,
Michael Richardson

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I’ve seen you twice at Equine Affaire and was very impressed, and I’m so pleased with the results from using Grape Balm. L.Bette

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Subject: feeding Bug Check in winter
Message: I have been feeding my Arabian mare bug check since April and the Equine Affaire. I have noticed an attitude change in her and she has had less gas colic attacks since then. I think it may be due to some of the ingrediants in the Bug Check. Can I continue feeding it over the winter? I am very happy with your product and I am also feeding my young horse who is very sensitive to bugs and also has food allergies with equal success. Marian Campbell

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” For anyone who travels as much as we do, horse health and comfort is a must. Using Bugcheck has been one product that we can count on to reduce problems with biting insects, in the barn area, in the pasture and on the trail. We find that fly problem on the trail for us is 80-85% less now that we are on the Bugcheck. .. Our horses get more pasture time during fly season for the same reason.. Thank you Dr Dan for one more great product. Garth and Kathy Rumsmoke, “The coast to coast ramblers”.

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Firstly, let me thank you for your advice concerning my young thoroughbred. His change in diet, from pellets to oats and your supplements is proving to be a wonderful change for him. His behavior, stamina, coat…all have improved…..Val

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Subject: warts on young horses Message: Hey, I discovered that Grape balm is great stuff on baby warts for horses. I was amazed because I was treating the wound on a stud colt weanling (went though fence) when I just smeared the grape balm on his warts on his nose. Well I couldn’t believe it after 2 days of smearing grape balm on his nose the warts were gone. I just thought you should know. It also works on people, when It worked on the colt I tried it on my son , wart went away so now I keep a jar in the barn and one in the house Thank you for your wonderful product . Kathleen Gray

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Heeves/Roaring
My 19 year old Arabian gelding, Jordache, was diagnosed with heaves and this past April (2005). Along with this, I had also heard him “roar”. Fortunately, I was introduced to your Critical Care Allergy and Immune formula at the Midwest Horse Fair in Wisconsin. I immediately put him on this and I am happy to report a noticeable improvement within a couple days, and now 6 weeks later he is now on “Vim & Vigor” still free of any heevey symptoms. The roaring has also stopped. Thank you so much for these wonderful products. An added bonus – he looks just fabulous; his coat just glows! Mary A.

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Subject: Critical Care
Message: Dear Dr. Dan,
We visited some friends in Pulaski TN a few weeks ago. They have several horses and recently purchased another horse. We took two of our horses to ride while there. It just happened that the new horse and our two horses were in adjacent pastures. One of our horses, a Morgan mare, developed a respiratory infection a few days after returning home, with signs of a heavy cough with a little bit of a snotty nose. The other mare we took on that trip did not develop any signs. Once the signs showed up in the Morgan, I started all the horses on Critical Care. The Morgan mare’s signs disappeared within a few days and the other horses did not become ill or show any signs of respiratory tract illness. Our four horses don’t have much interaction with other horses but I will keep a canister of Critical Care in my barn for future use. Without a “control” it is difficult to estimate how long the Morgan would have coughed but since the others didn’t get sick, it appears that your product did the trick! Thank you. Betsy

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Dear Dr. Dan,
thank you for taking the time to respond to my email, i know it wasn’t an easy email to answer. just wanted you to know, per your recommendation, I ordered vim & vigor plus last wed. first of all, you guys are great – rec’d my product friday afternoon – couldn’t believe you got it to me sooo fast. Started “dandie” on it friday night. on sundays, i usually turn “dandie” out in an big unfenced field in front of the barn, he always stays
within 100 feet of the barn but yesterday i came out of the barn only to find him way, way out in the middle of the field and i do mean way, way out. I went to bring him back to the training area and the big, bay stinker ran away from me -yep, he made me chase him. i can’t believe it! the best his been able to do up to this point is a limping trot.
is it the “formula”?? he’d only been on this product 2 1/2 days! ok – i admit, i ordered it
without much in the way of expectations but wow! i can’t wait to see what’s going on 50 days from now – don’t know if this is a “cure” but it certainly improved his life (much better than cutting the flexor tendion and just making him comfortable until him has
to be put down as the vet here recommended). i’ve started a small natural living – equine podiatry rehab. here in new jersey. i have a little strawberry roan mare in with navicular syndrome, pulled her shoes, treated thrush, and trimmed her to balance her feet and she it doing well – but after yesterday, i am now going to start her on this product also (i’ll let you know the results). she has a 10 yr old girl waiting for her to get better so she can go home to conn. with this product, i’m hoping she can be there for Christmas…. regards,
lee ann lewis

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This is the 2nd year I have used it on my Gelding, the first year I started using this I could see an improvement, I would put it were the fly’s had made sores on his legs, face, neck almost every were… I can see that bugs will not land on this stuff, If I could afford it I would cover him from ear to hoof every day…I have him and a buckskin on the bug check, the gelding is doing much better than last year, I just got the buckskin he was so bad with bug bites the owners gave him to me.. they have not been able to ride him for over year, he came from some were up north, under the belly was so bad from rubbing that it was bleeding, I have been using the Grape balm and I now have that under control, I have the hair back growing on his chest.. now were working on the tail, I gave my vet a jar to try on one of her horses, she said she will give it a try and if it works tell her client, so I am sure she will be ordering some.. My guys could ready use this in a spray or wipe.. Please

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My husband uses this on his hunting dogs, it keeps the bugs off and helps with any skin issue that come up, he is very pleased with it.

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Also my horses were eating my tree’s in the pasture, they have free choice of salt and minerals, but still eat the trees and fence post, I ordered the RedCal and went thought it fast, but they stopped eating the tree’s.. were now on our 2nd bag and they seem to slowed down on eating it, this stuff is great. My trees have a chance.

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I also use the Vim & Vigor Joint. I was given a colt he was 10 months old with deformed legs and hoofs that and never been trimmed, (they were going to put him down) when they pulled him off the trailer you could see that it was very painful for him to walk and you could hear this guys joints make noise as he tried to walk, I called and ordered the Vim & Vigor Joint, were still working on his hooves and his legs will never be right, but this little guy now over 1 year old can run, and jump over fences (to get with the big guys), no one can believe this little guy with his legs as bad as the are can get around like he does. Boomer and I thank you.

The Natural Vet® (877)-873-8838  http://www.naturalhorsevet.com

To shoe or not to shoe, that is the question. Whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to… Oh. Sorry. Wrong story.

Well, regardless, it is a good topic to touch upon these days, what with the trend towards one extreme or the other. One can’t help but notice that there are so many people advocating having your horse go barefooted is best. For the most part, these people are not equine professionals, but rather every day horse owners who have had one bad experience after another with this shoer or that shoer. It’s not their fault. They are trying to do what they feel is best for their horse and wanting to help educate others like them, based on what they’ve learned. The flip side of the coin is your professionals who are staunch supporters of shoes for one reason or another. Shoes are meant to protect, support, help heal the foot, and generally it’s simply a mind set that’s hard for them to see past. It’s the tried and true method that’s been done forever. How can it be wrong? From each of their own perspectives, own training and/or experiences, they are all valid reasons. But, are they right? What I hope to do with this article is provide you with a little information, a little knowledge, a little ammunition if you will, as to allow you to make your own conclusions and hopefully have a better idea of what to do and when.

Let’s examine the two extremes a bit closer first. The advocates of shoeing tend to be your farriers and your vets. The vets recommend, and at time, require you to have one type of shoe or another applied to your horse in order to correct a problem. They are drawing on the knowledge they gained in vet school. They learned a few of the basic shoes, their ‘supposed’ purpose, and how they ‘supposedly’ work, from a farrier who was hired by their college to give them a crash course in farriery. This however, arms the vets rather poorly, as they only have about a days worth of training in what farriers go to school for months to learn. [And that month is ONLY for the basics.] Ok, so let’s talk farriers while we’re at it. Many farriers in this country are independents and most likely learned from hands on from their father, grandfather or from their local, long time farrier. Most of the rest attended one of the many schools dedicated to teaching horse shoeing. Hence, shoeing is the primary focus for many of these schools and shoeing is the means by which they learn to fix, repair, enhance, modify or alter a horse’s hooves and/or method of going. It’s what they do for a living; they shoe horses! BUT, it’s not the only thing we do. Farriers learn over years, work towards advanced certifications and continue their knowledge in as many ways as they possibly can, (if they’re truly dedicated to helping horses) in order to learn the best shoe, the best trim, the best method, the best way to modify a shoe to achieve the desired goal for your horse. Farriers also learn how to balance the horses’ foot and body, learn how to repair hoof problems, and learn how to keep your horse as healthy as possible (at least they are suppose to). In short, it’s called ‘corrective shoeing’ or ‘corrective trimming’. Farriers are trained to take many, many variables into consideration before they recommend and perform their services.

Let’s examine the other side of the coin now, shall we? The advocates for a horse going barefooted, in my experience, have tended to be people who are not vets, not farriers, and not people who have studied the curriculum that either the vets or farriers have. Does that make them uneducated about the horse and his feet? NO! Quite often, these people are very knowledgeable. They study the writings of many of the masters. They search the internet for articles, diagrams, etc, etc. They think, they practice, they search for one idea or another that seems to make the most sense to them. They, in their own way, are as well educated as either the vets or farriers when it comes to the hoof. Their advantage is, they tend to think outside the box, so to speak. They aren’t tied down by tradition or conventional thinking. They tend to be more holistic in their approach to fixes or cures. They believe in finding a natural approach to repairing the horse or its hooves. They seek the gentle and kind vs. the harsh and rigid. Hard to find fault with they’re thinking, isn’t it?

So who’s wrong? Or, more over, who’s right? That’s a darned good question and I’m glad you asked. For what it’s worth to anyone, here’s my opinion. In their own ways, they are both right and they are both wrong. (Well, what did you expect me to say?? It does sound like a politicians’ answer though, doesn’t it. Oh well.) From their point of view, their arguments hold water. But (and here’s were we start getting to MY opinion), neither of these extremes take the whole problem, the whole situation and the whole horse into account. They aren’t looking at the big picture. And it IS a big picture. There are a lot of aspects to be considered. Let’s see if we can highlight the majority of them.

The questions that need to be asked are, does the horse appear to have any problems? What are the horse’s symptoms? What is the horse doing from a posture or stance standpoint? What foot or part of the body is the horse favoring or not favoring? What is the condition of the feet, and has the horse been diagnosed as having any particular problem? If there aren’t any visible or evident problems and the horse appears to be ‘normal’, then the next questions that should be asked are, what is the horse going to be used for? How often will it be used for this purpose? Is this use seasonal or all year long? What is the terrain or the environment like that the horse will be used in the most?
These are all questions that you, the horse owner, should be asking. In all honesty, your farrier should be asking the same questions.

When I talk with horse owners who are pondering the shoeing question, I ask all of these questions and then some. I take all kinds of factors into play. But let me try to break this down into some simple terms. If you have a working horse, be it barrels, eventing, roping and the like, and you do this on a regular basis and it’s over all types of terrain, chances are, you’re going to figure you’re going to need to have your horse’s feet shod. If you are competing at the lower show circuit levels and you do dressage or jumping or western pleasure, chances are, you don’t need to have your horse shod. If you enjoy trail riding and you don’t ride many places where your horses’ feet get chewed up and bruised, most likely, you don’t need to have your horse shod. If your horse was previously used for something strenuous, but doesn’t any more and the horse is shod, you should really consider having the shoes pulled. If you do a little of this and a little of that with your horse, but you don’t ride places where the feet will be excessively warn or beaten, you most likely don’t need to have your horse shod. If your horse is retired and is now a pasture pet, you certainly don’t need to have it shod. Simply put, the factor for shoeing should be the activity level the horse will be used for, the amount of physical wear on the feet, the excessive abuse the feet might take, and NOT because of peer pressure or because it looks nice. Shoeing should be to accommodate the activity level or the terrain the horse is to be used in. A caveat to the issue of shoeing your horse because of use and wear is, during the off season, or for some period (or periods) of time during the year, let your horse go barefooted. Take the shoes off. Let the feet rest. A minimum period of three consecutive months a year would be a nice start. If you activity level will allow it, go longer in-between shoeings. The longer the feet go without shoes, the better the inside of the hoof can repair, can be function fully and can affect the outer hoof wall with strong, healthy tissue. Repeated constant shoeing over years of time is most likely going to catch up with you, and your horse. The feet will break down, it’s just a matter of when.

Now then, let’s move on to lameness issues. If your horse is foundered, laminitic, has dropped or sunken soles, or has just about ANY kind of hoof ailment, you should NOT shoe your horse. (What did he just say???) In simple terms, don’t shoe an unhealthy foot. I know that goes against how the vast majority of the vets and farriers where trained, but it only makes sense. Don’t put a shoe on an unhealthy foot. Here’s why. It will likely take up to four times longer (with a farrier who knows what he’s doing) to fix a foot problem with shoes than it will without. How can that be you ask?? It’s common since and simple mechanics. The foot can not fully function, or complete its cycle as I like to call it, with a shoe of any kind nailed OR glued in place. It can not flex properly, obtain the proper amount of sole and frog stimulation and it can not move as much fluid through the foot as it can without shoes. Let me say this again, the foot can NOT get the full support and stimulation with shoes on. Therefore, over time, the foot begins to break down. A healthy hoof breaks down slowly, perhaps over many years, but it breaks down faster if it is already unhealthy. It is important to give any horse with shoes some time off from being shod, preferably at least three months; longer if possible. Again, the plain and simple points are, don’t shoe a horse that doesn’t have a usage factor that dictates the horse be shod and don’t shoe an unhealthy hoof. Period. Here’s one other way of looking at the lame horse. Does it make sense to take a horse, which is already in great pain from something like founder or who is trying to abscess, and drive nails into its feet to hold on a solid piece of metal? Of course not. There are better ways to help your foundered or lame horses without having to put him through even more pain. It has taken me years to find what that better way is, but I believe I have found it. But that’s a story for another day. Today, we’re discussing shoeing vs. not shoeing. Please don’t shoe an unhealthy foot. I’ve borrowed a phrase from the alcohol industry and turned it around for our purposes. Please shoe responsibly! I hope you’ll think about that.

Well, I hope I have managed to appeal to you as a voice of reason, a middle ground, if you will. I hope I have helped you to see that there are right reasons and wrong reasons to shoe. I hope I have helped you understand that the supporters of going barefoot are not necessarily wrong, but are not necessarily taking all the variables into consideration. I hope I have helped you understand that just because we, farriers, shoe horses for a living that this isn’t the only thing we are trained to do. I hope you understand that you should not shoe your horse if it is lame. Help him get better before you put shoes on him again. Folks, there are many opinions floating around these days. There are many options as well, but they are not all right for each and every situation or each and every horse. There are many MANY variables to consider when working on any horse for ANY reason. Do your homework. Research and study; and determine what the best situation is for your horse. Oh, and one last thought, be kind and considerate of your horse. After all, horses are people too.

If you have problems or questions and would like to speak with Keith, please call him at 770-312-6909, or e-mail him at keith@keithseeley.com.

One of the most misunderstood yet most important aspects of health, is Fat! Quite honestly, many health care practitioners don’t even understand just how important fats are. For instance, would you agree that most people have and ARE being told daily that fats are bad for you? Most doctors, the media, the advertisements and pretty much ALL, suggest a low fat diet. I am here to tell you, in my not so humble opinion, that NOTHING COULD BE FARTHER FROM THE TRUTH! Fats are critical to your health and your animal’s health. You need them and you need lots of them, you just need the right kinds!

Stroke, Heart Attack, and Cardiovascular Patients are all too familiar fat related problems, but as I will explain, these are just the tip of the iceberg! For instance, anyone who is Autistic, has Multiple Sclerosis, Diabetes, Optic Neuritis, Irritable Bowel Syndrome Fibromialgia, Alzheimers, Parkinsens Disease, ALS, depression (manic or other wise), Chronic Fatigue Syndrome – ANY neurodegenerative disorder is most likely lacking good fats and overloaded with bad fats. Liver disease, gallbladder, adrenal disease, heavy metals, any infection (chronic or otherwise), and especially Lymes are ultimately a fat problem! As I continue my search, I am quickly coming to realize that even “Aging” itself is DIRECTLY related! In horses, my personal opinion is that EPM, Infertility, Botulism, heavy metal toxicosis, Cushing’s Disease, and certainly the obvious – hypothyroidism, metabolic disorders and insulin resistance are all FAT balance related (certainly the same for pets, too).

For the most part, I believe that the equine field is slightly ahead of human medicine in getting the word out to the public about the need for fats. But unfortunately, I am certain that most high fat diets in horses are only going to contribute more to the overall problem – because as in people, we are feeding our horses the “wrong” fats. Neither Low Fat nor High Fat for people or animals is correct — the RIGHT Fat is the answer!

My mission in this article to explain why fats and how fats are so important. For the fish oil and flax eaters, I will offer this preliminary advice though: Fish Oil and/or Flax are not enough! How do we know which fats to use? For a better understanding let’s look at the body itself.

The Brain is 60% fat – (17-20% omega 3, and about 12% omega 6). The cell membranes that surround blood cells, liver cells are roughly half fat. (The other half is protein by the way!) Neurons, dendrites, synapses – the nerve connections themselves, are fat! Myelin, which insulates nerve fibers, is 76% fat! The obvious question from me is: how can reducing fat in the diet be good for these? It can’t! The need for a good brain I would think is fairly obvious. Cell membranes are vital because they separate the zillions of cells in the body from the outside world and allow for the exchange of all the bad and good “stuff”. Personally I want my membranes in tip top shape! Because I know there is a lot of “bad stuff” to keep out as well as “good stuff” to get in! Nerve connections, that don’t work, such as the dendrites, neurons and synapses would pretty much be like having a dead battery in your car… you ain’t going nowhere! One final example: it is in the development of myelin that surrounds the nerves. Myelin development is what babies need before they can start to walk. Now if myelin is 76% fat, is it not obvious that fat is critical? Only if one wants to walk!!! Dah… Here’s your sign if you think otherwise!! (Sorry – Couldn’t resist) If such vital structures as these are mainly composed of fat does it not make sense that the fats need replenishing?

Next, to further understand which fats we need, let’s look at the actual membranes which surround each and every cell in the body. The principle fat in membranes is called a phospholipid. Literally each membrane is made up of millions of phospholipids all lined up. Each has a head and two tails. One tail is a saturated fat (straight tail), the other is an unsaturated fat (a crooked tail). Wedged in between is cholesterol. Also a part of each membrane is a glycolipid. Glycolipids are tiny sugar molecules that protect, insulate and again, exchange nutrients. Let’s take a closer look at each of these components and see how each relates.

Cholesterol varies with the type of membrane. For instance, plasma membranes have essentially one cholesterol per phospholipid molecule. Some membranes that need more support may need more, BUT ALL membranes need cholesterol. Cholesterol actually gives the membrane structure plus allows certain things to pass and others not to pass. The problem SOMETIMES with cholesterol is when it “overflows” into the blood stream …..but even in the blood stream, it is sort of like a beneficial band aid FIXING potential leaks in the cell walls of the vessels – putting back the structure to a bad wall. If it breaks loose and causes a clot – yes that is bad (stroke or heart attack)… but saying that high cholesterol is the cause of heart disease as like saying that a lot of police in a high crime district is the cause of the crime… You must have cholesterol! Who said Cholesterol is bad for you? What IS actually bad for you are the bad fats – Cholesterol is not the bad fat!

As I said, the main component of each and every membrane in the body is phospholipids, Lets break down the phospholipid molecule and look at it a little closer. The phospolipid molecule looks like a fish with two tails. It acts kind of like a magnet – the head having one charge and the tails having the opposite. This magnet like component attracts and repels, thus allowing “stuff” both good and bad, in and out through the membrane. One side of the tail, the unsaturated one, actually vibrates moving particles in and out! The saturated tail part is rigid and solid and hardly moves. It is the balance of these two tails that is the most critical to understand. You see it takes both kinds of fats – both saturated and unsaturated to compose the properly maintain structure of the chief component of cell membranes (phospholipids). JUST NOT EATING FAT can lead to problems. I mentioned this concept to friend just the other day. Her comments were that in the office where she worked 7 of the 9 women went on a “low fat craze” several years ago – all seven now have MS! Wow!

Now lets look at one more aspect of fats and membranes, probably the most important! RENEGADE fats, perhaps not a good medical term, but none the less, a word I like to use because it describes these types of fats perfectly. Why? Because they are bad news to the bone! These are man made fats or particles of fats or mutated fats or jumbled up fats, trans fats, etc. etc.. THESE, my friends, are the killers and these are what we are eating in the typical American diet (especially prevalent in horse and pet foods, too). These REDEGADE FATS can displace the good fats we just discussed. They make the membrane absolutely solid – they don’t move, vibrate, transmit or anything – they just prevent the good from getting in and the bad from getting out! These essentially clog up all membranes and are a major factor in causing disease – essentially any disease! In slight defense of the “low fat craze”, a low fat diet would reduce these renegades, because these are typically what almost all Americans eat – but if the right fats are not added back, then it is certainly a Catch 22 situation – too much bad and not enough good. According to my sources, which are not your typical medical media propaganda, almost all degenerative neurological situations are fat related! AND almost all of the diseases mentioned thus far can be helped by burning the bad fats and flooding the body with the good fats – including phospholipids. This knowledge is not new ladies and gentlemen – I found books from back in the 70’s discussing this very issue – not in quite so much depth but the CONCEPT of good and bad fats has been around a long time.

The difficulty is that the American Food Industry processes almost all of the foods we eat. PROCESSED FATS AND OILS ARE DEADLY. This includes most bread, most crackers, cookies, margarine, cooking oils, etc. etc. – If it says hydrogenated, refined or processed on the label – don’t eat it! My Grandmother ate bacon, eggs, real butter and whole milk every day. Most likely so did yours, (but not processed, refined fats and oils) and she lived well into her 80’s. I believe we can too. Science has not really discovered yet the correct balance of these Omega Fatty Acids (essential fatty acids or EFA’s). Most doctors so far are just suggesting fish oil and/or flax (omega 3) – which are helpful – but I believe we are forgetting the other omegas – even omega 6 and especially omega 9. AND I know most have totally forgotten or not yet aware of the phospholipids – which are absolutely critical. By the way, one of the best sources of phospholipids and Omega Fatty Acids are CRUDE UNREFINED soybeans. Coconut is a great source of Omega 9 – and coconut even contains high amounts of Lauric acid – shown to be both antibacterial and antiviral!

One quick note on horse and pet feed is the difficulty in preserving fats in the feed – which is often why so many feeds contain these renegade processed fats – they withstand heat that feeds are exposed to better, but honestly are like feeding plastic to your horse! Typical vegetable and corn oil sources are refined, processed and just plain bad for you, your pet or your horse!

Thus far we have discussed cholesterol, phospholipids, saturated and unsaturated fatty acids and briefly discussed omega fatty acids but have yet to mention the glycolypids present in cell membranes. Essentially these are very simple sugars and though they are being studied extensively, little is known about them except that they protect, insulate and help exchange nutrients. Some studies are already showing that they may actually help modulate or regulate the immune system. Examples of such glycolipids are mannins such as mannose, oligosaccarides, agrabinogalactan. I have no doubt that they are extremely important because I am seeing the clinical results in both animals and man by using them. Some examples of potential benefits thus far seen are help with gut problems, such as chronic or acute diarrhea, and even allergies. Major universities have even demonstrated by experimentation an increase in Natural Killer Cells, which help fight cancer cells, and activation of what is called the compliment system, which is what is activated when foreign substances invade the body – thus making them essentially antiviral and antibacterial. One lab demonstrated Arabinogalactan (which comes fro the Western Larch Tree) to be even more beneficial than Echinacea and especially better with long-term usage.

Finally it is hard to discuss fats without at least mentioning anti-oxidants. THEY are critical, too, for many reasons but especially important regarding fats. When fats rot or go rancid they are essentially worse than anything. The reason the food industry even processes fats and oils to begin with is so that they are more stable and less likely to go rancid – we now know this is not good, right? But as we use more good fats (less processed as I suggest) there is a greater chance of rancidity – because they are less stable (perhaps I should say LESS LIKE PLASTIC). These must be counterbalanced with anti-oxidants. THE PRIMARY ROLE OF ANTI-OXIDANTS IN THE BODY IS TO STABILIZE FATS! Oxidation could be described as rusting. Anti “Oxidation” is to help prevent the rusting within the body. Every animal, including man needs anti-oxidants daily. Just like a piece of metal left in the environment will rust, so will our bodies if they are not protected. Anti-oxidants are like “Rustolieum” for the body – critical for long term protection.

I hope it is becoming more and more clear that simply eating “low fat” and less cholesterol (much less cholesterol lowering drugs) is just not the answer. Essential fatty acids, phospholipids, glycolipids and anti-oxidants are a critical parts of anyones (or animal’s) health plan. I wish I had the TOTAL answer for you and I do certainly promise to keep searching. In the mean time, avoid processed food (renegade fats, hydrogenated, refined) as much as possible. Do consider an essential fatty acid supplement (but not just fish oil or flax). Always take anti-oxidants yourself and give your pets and horses anti-oxidant supplements, too. Start each and every day with 25 grams or so of high quality protein (a whole other nutrition lesson!) and consider a phospholipid supplement as well.

Sincerely,

Dan Moore DVM

The Natural Vet® (877)-873-8838  http://www.naturalhorsevet.com

No. This isn’t about some barroom brawl or Don King’s latest Las Vegas boxing promotion. A very dear friend of mine pointed out the similarities between bartenders and farriers. This one’s been rolling around in my head for quite some time. What’s funny about the analogy is I’ve even thought of giving up the farrier business to become a bartender. Only problem is, I wouldn’t be changing much about the job, just the tools of the trade. I know, I know. You folks think I’m off my rocker, and you may well be right. But if you’ll think about it, you’ll see there are a lot of similarities between the two. You don’t see how, right? Well, just keep reading and I’ll be happy to explain everything. Bear with me and all will be made just as clear as that bottom of that glass you’re looking into…

First of all, I don’t really know who has the better job, the farrier or the bartender. After all, the bartender works in a dimly lit, smoky building. The farrier works in a dimly lit building that he makes smoky. We both have our regular, long-time clientele, many of whom we consider friends, as well as the customers who just seem to be passing through. We both provide a standard service most of the time, however, we both have to know quite a few specialty services as well. We both hear lots of gossip, some of which is true, some of which is about people we know and some of which is out in left field. The bartender stands behind a bar, wiping and cleaning and keeping an eye on things while he converses. Farriers stand behind a horse, rubbing and petting and keeping and eye on things while conversing. Both have an over-abundance of a recyclable bi-product, and I don’t mean the hot air we’re expending. Both have to contend with flies; bar flies and barn flies. Both have to contend with long hours, short pay and customers that never seem to know when enough is enough. Both know lots of people in the community. Both are asked lots of questions crossing lots of borders and lots of topics; some we have a right and knowledge to answer and some we don’t. But we do the best we can to either answer the ones we can, sidestep the ones we can’t, or refer the really important questions that are outside of our trade to the people who do have the knowledge. Yep, there’s a lot we have in common.

Now then, having said all that. Let me make it perfectly clear, bartenders ain’t got nothing on farriers! Let me list out all the different professions that are rolled up into this job. First and foremost, a farrier has to be, well, a farrier. Trained and educated in the art and science of farriery. Along with that, there are a whole host of other professions that the better farriers are educated in and have learned to incorporate. Why? Well, it makes our jobs easier and provides a better service to the horse owner. It sorta reads like the Boy Scout motto, you know, a Scout is Trustworthy, Loyal, Helpful, Friendly, Courteous, Kind, Obedient, Cheerful, Thrifty, Brave, Clean and Reverent. Well, a Farrier is an Equine Podiatrist, Human and Equine Psychologist, Equine Nutritionist, Equine Chiropractor, Veterinary Assistant, Blacksmith, Horse Trainer, Detective, Mental and Physical Therapist, Businessmen, Theorist, Alchemist, Library of General knowledge and a walking ad for any number of health products and beauty aids. On top of all this, we ‘do’ all of this in 30 degree weather (or less), 100 degree weather, rain or shine, low or high humidity, and we do it all year around. Why? Good question. Some of us are just plain hard-headed I guess. But mostly because we like helping make horses feel better, we like interacting with horse people and we like a certain amount of freedom and self-control. We also like knowing we have a certain gift and we like seeing the results from it. And we do tend to like the Great Outdoors. On the other hand, we like NOT being in an office where we have to wear suits and ties. We don’t like is, having to deal with flies, gnats and mosquitoes, dogs-cats-chickens-geese-ducks-kids-etc. under foot while we’re working, poorly lit buildings, NO buildings, mud covered feet – both ours and the horses-, no relief from hot, humid days, irate customers, people who don’t pay and people whose horses are smarter than they are. These are a few of our least favorite things. Now, you show me even one bartender who can match all this! You know, that bartending job is beginning to look better and better all the time. Plus, there’s an added bonus, they ALWAYS have a good supply of refreshing, cold beverages readily at hand. Ah, what a life. Well, I learned how to spell farrier, I ‘spose I can learn to spell bartender, too. Don’t you think??? Cheers!

If you have any questions you would like answered or need some advice on a problem, please contact me. I’ll be happy to do what I can to help.

Thanks and Happy Trails.